Kodaikanal feasts those who love to be close to Mother Nature, than any other hill stations in South India. Maya Krishnan says that its minimal population and lacks of modernization that keeps the natural forests virgin to offer the visitors a haven from the fury and fumes of the fast paced life.

When my friend returned to India after 3 years, she told me, “we must go somewhere else; I can’t withstand this simmering heat.” Though I too was thinking of such an ‘escape’ from the rumbling schedules of deadlines living inside the riffling concrete forests, we had to wait for my daughter’s school vacation.

When all the Keralaites celebrate Onam all around the globe, we two families set out for the serenity which can never be available in the Kerala market, even inside the instant Onam kits. The lush memories of our Ooty trip in May were still live inside and hence we opted the nearest hill station, Kodaikanal for this term’s recharging.

Why missing Onam?

When we were all set ready for the trip the question we  faced was all about wasting an Onam. For the Keralites, Onam is the exclusively regional festivity which brings together all the loves once again at the corridors of a getting back. It is nostalgic for those who had a great Onam memoir inside. But for me Onam reminds of the dreadful terminal examinations. As a child I too wished to make a pookkalam (floral art) in my courtyard, but my strict parents never allowed me and I was always forced to sit in my study peeping out other children reveling. I never made a pookalam, no guests ever came to my home with sweets and love.

So I don’t want my daughter to have a barren Onam like that of mine. Onam ultimately connotes a pleasurable get-together. My Onam kick started the day when my friend landed here with her family.

From the concrete forests to the Princess of Forests

If Ooty is the ‘Queen of hills’, Kodaikanal is the ‘Princess of forests’. Yes, Kodaikanal keeps the vigor of a virgin unadulterated unlike Ooty that went away with the so called modernization.  From the sweltering heat and inundated cities we began to wind up the hills – from heights to heights – from mountains to mountains. Our journey from Kerala to the hill station was full of surprises. We could see the hard working Tamilians bringing water from distant places and planting and cultivating vegetables and fruits. While Kerala, the land blessed with 44 rivers and wide ranges of green fields and mountain chains is being transformed into concrete jungles, Tamil Nadu once a bleak land of dry winds and zero rain is getting lush with resolution and perspiration. Either side of the State High way, bloomed mango trees greeted the passers by. Even before reaching the Lower Palani hills, we put the glass windows down to have the fresh air. Thenceforth, our air conditioner was under rest for four days.

From the Lower Palani Hills, our kids started to agape at everything that comes on the way. At night the view of Palani Hill was enthralling. The chemistry between the natural mist and artificial illumination was so stunning that it creates no dissonance inside a spectator.

Our car began to whirl round the chain of hills as though hopping from one to another. As it was already dark we could not enjoy the wonders of the valley. But on the way some sign boards that tell ‘Elephant crossing zone ‘made our kids scared. Being kids, scaring with or without reason is the happiest thing when they are together, I know it.

On reaching the hotel, where we had a stay 8 years before, we found that it  has changed a bit by constructing two new cottages in its beautiful premises thus marred the panoramic view of the valley from the room. Anyways, it was nice cold outside and under the woolen blanket we got sound sleep barring the deadline tensions far away.

Kodai — The English way

Our hotel was near to the Kurinji Andavar temple and Chettiar Park, the only two native destinations spots that holds Tamil background. As far as the Kodaikanal hill station is concerned, it still carries the Colonial hangover in its every cell. Each and every tourist spot is named after the British bureaucrats and the American missionaries who ferreted out this hidden paradise which bears the miraculous capability of recuperation.

Even while caning over the Indian public, the British were always searching for a place where they could escape physical and mental eeriness born out of workloads and mental pricks. Moreover, the plains down the valleys feasted their skin of less melanin pigments with loads of diseases. The American missionaries while on their ‘missions’, were also joined hands with the British to settle down the valleys which radiate rejuvenating energy with zero artificial elements. When the lazy Indians who were not ready to shoulder the responsibilities of a nation’s governance but were playing with the cast cards, hardly turned to the harems of these forests where aborigines had their own domain. But the intelligent Whites discovered the virgin valleys and recreated certain structures that suit to their needs. Indians still keep them alive with the carved names of its ‘white creators’.

Coaker’s Walk, Chandler’s Falls, Berinjam lake, Boyer’s Dormitory in the Kodai International School, Bryant Park…and so on and so forth. Enjoy the English!!!

We got the information about the life in Kodai forests prior to the invasion of the English from the Anglade Institute of National History in Shenbaganur.  The aborigines lived inside the forests had a life full of struggles against the odds of the dense forest and the beasts stroll over there. They were tribal people who  neither sow nor reap nor gather into barns. When in 1867, Sir Vere, District Collector of Madurai found out the scintillating Kodai forests, he actively nurtured the surroundings where  he settled in Kodai. He then introduced new varieties of fruits, vegetables and flowers and improved and built roads and ways spending his own money. His major achievement is the landmark of Kodaikanal – the star shaped Kodai lake with 5 boat clubs around its 5 Km perimeter.

Nature’ s Gift

We went to the Kurinji Aandavar temple to apologize the presiding deity Murugan for not greeting him at his original abode at Palani. On the way sides to the temple stand the remnants  of the bloomed kurinji flowers. The blue bunches of Kurinji flowers are the significant attraction of Kodaikanal as a tourist destination.

Here in Kodaikanal, Nature keeps amazing miracles of beauty and chasms in every element to make one humble to that Great Creator. The 12 yearly-flowering Kurinji flowers (Strobilanthus) which cover the hillsides with purple bloom is His another marvelous prank . It was in 2004 that it bloomed last. At that time all the news papers  carry banner heads with its report and charming photographs. Tourists from all parts of the world will  flow to Kodaikanal and Munnar (in Kerala,) the only places where this purple bloom happens.

In Kurinji Aandavar Kovil Murugan is known by that name because of the kurinji flowers that pave the way to the temple. But certain other version say that, Valli, the wife of Murugan was the adopted child of Kurinji tribe who were the early inhabitants of the Kodai forests.

After breakfast, Sikkender Badsha joined us as a guide. He took us to the distant places where we would not have gone otherwise. He guided us to the deep valleys through the pine forests. We really enjoyed the voyage through the calm pine forest for we were not allowed into the pine forests in Ooty.  Visuals of a number of Priyadarshan films flashed through our minds. Apparently, the pineforests are never wild, but calmer than a hermitage.

We were deliberately avoiding the peak season of Kodaikanal which feasts you even more with its pleasant climate and scenic beauties.   We were the seekers of serenity out of the fury and fumes of the mechanical life down the plains. Sikkender was frequently asking us to come again in the peak season, for he was totally unaware of our ‘crowd-hating’ nature.

The unique rows of silky pine trees sloping down to crystal clear streams was a spectacular vision even from outside the forest. But suddenly you can see the visions get blurred gradually and vanishes suddenly. You may be embarrassed. It is the mist…that makes the visions apparitions that makes the minds romantic, that makes the nerves jerked.

In one spot, The Upper Lake View, we could see the mighty Palani hill as a tiny off-shoot of the Western Ghats. High-rock outcrops and acres of emerald velvet criss-crossed by the sparkling streams, bare promontories protruding into the infinite sky…deep valleys and steep mountains. In the wide shot, we can see the Shola trees standing upright on the slopes folding their leaves in a praying position. We too would fold our hands with reverence, to that Great Craftsman!!!

All around a Lake

We were proud of our native Trichur for its wonderful architectural beauty that even got accolades from the eminent architect Prof.Guddis for its wonderful construction artistically around the mighty Vadakkunnathan temple. But on knowing Kodaikanal we could figure out what is natural from what is man-made. This hill station is centered around the Kodai Lake, which  is the only artificial thing here. Less modernized with a scanty population of merely One lakh, Kodai stands unabated even in the strife of global warming. Kodai, I think, is still a virgin.

Kodai covers an area of 22 sq.Km, amidst the sylvan beauty on the southern crest of Upper Palani hills, in Dindugal district. Sikkender again took us to the interiors where we could perceive the untouched wild  forests. In the valleys there were dense patches of broad-leaved evergreen rain forests – shoalas. Unlike the rain forests of the plains the trees here do  not reach  majestic heights because of the high altitude and constant wind. We really felt envy for those who live there. These forests are the prime watersheds for the whole region. They absorb water during the monsoon and release it judiciously all year around.

We thought of our on natives – where Athirappilly Sholayar forests which are still under threat. When we cut forests we are breaking down our water tanks, bringing in floods during monsoon and draught during other seasons. When we revert our meadows and paddy fields we do not  know these are the biological treasure houses. No..no. we should not be such conservationalists at the time of modernisation. Be practical. These are mere waste lands which can put to some use. Some English men might have thought like this then. That is why the Eucalyptus, wattle and pine trees are here.

Next Sikkender took us to the Mahalakshmy temple upon a small hillock there. Unwearing the shoes we all climbed up to the temple. Lakshmi and Vinayagar are the main deities there. But the newly constructed temple is on the high ways of progress. New constructions for Durga is going on there. Hearing us talking Malayalam, the priest of the temple, a slender chap ran after us. He said he belongs to Kerala and the temple is also under Keralite Management. He also told us that he had the order from above not to  pose for any photographs especially for Keralites. He is getting a handsome salary. So we left there quickly.

From that hillock we saw mist and clouds playing hide and seek. Because it was off-season tourists were scanty. Hither and thither we could see newly wedded couples romancing inside the pine forests and upon the green meadows. Being recently joined, it never broke the calmness that twines around the ambience.

Driving along the vast meadows and shoals forests, we drifted with least awareness of time. we were startled to see the watch that shows 3.30 pm that too only when my friend’s daughter complained of stomach ache. On the wayside we stopped our car near a tea shop from where we had our simple but delicious lunch. Then our kids came to understand that hunger is nothing but stomach ache!!

Togetherness

During the walks Sikkender was making us hurry saying we have not even covered a single part of the sight-seeing. But we lagged as far as we can. Because what we need is quietness, peace, serenity, fresh air and above all togetherness. .We were enjoying it at the maximum. Most of the places were ‘unreachable’ for the mobile calls. That added a feather touch to the calmness.

Next he took us to the Dolphin’s Nose. It is gigantic rock projecting over a breath-taking chasm challenging the photographer inside you to the risky and deadly poses. The panoramic view might have stunning from upon, but we trailed off as we are mothers more than any other guises in life. However,  Sikkender tried to lead us to the top of the Pillar Rocks. We could see the pillar rocks from far away itself as 3 vertical lofty monolithic rocks standing upright shoulder to shoulder. There also mist played its game by changing the vision into apparition. When standing agape at the greatness my daughter stooped down to catch the mist flying. Heard somebody singing : “aaj mein ooper aazman neeche..”. It was true to the chore.

Our kids were pressing from the start to go to ‘Guna Caves’ (What an impact a Kamal movie has!). It was Devil’s Kitchen before the featuring of that film.The dark and deep bat-infested chamber between the gigantic granite wonders are worth to see. To reach it one has to climb a hill with tree roots and fallen branches as in the ‘Jungle Book’ of Rudyard Kipling. But we were depressed to see that the caves and the entrance to the edge of the hillock is closed with iron grills. Sikkender told us that youngsters who come in groups frequently fall into it from where the chance of escape is nil. That is why this precaution. Any way I had a foul slip upon the grills which is also worth remembering.

At night we really felt tired of trekking and soon fast asleep under the woolen blanket. Next morning with more fervor we started our sight seeing without Sikkender. We found thrills walking through the unknown paths. Anyways, we deliberately left Berinjam Lake as it is inside the forest and it needs admit card from the DFO to get into.

Everything was executed reverse thenceforth. Coaker’s Walk feasts you only after the sun down. But we preferred to take it first before noon. So we left the sizzling visions of necklaces by illuminations. We missed the Broken Spectre, the miraculous vision of our own shadow in the cloud. But there came a group of college students, a flock of lovely girls giggling in Tamil—it was also a feast for the eye!!!

Coaker’s Walk offers a light walk with safety. Unlike in other places, we can forget ourselves dissolving into the infinite beauty of the nature below our feet. We walked freely through the fog and luke-warm sun, along the vendors who make and sell beautiful ear drops of embroidery threads, mango slices dipped in salt and chilly powder, ice creams and dried flowers….An over view of the whole Kodai.

After that we drove down to the Green Valley View, which my friend said is a facsimilie of the landscape of Switzerland. The flock of lambs browsing below far away made her remember of the famous cattle farms of Switzerland. My daughter then came to contentment with her living in South India.

Winding down

Finally we reached the Kodai Lake, the cynosure of Kodaikanal. We chose the raw-boat bearing in mind the knee-pain of the pedaled ones at Ooty. The boatman was very friendly and he turned the boat towards  the blue water lilies that called out our kids. He plucked three and made a garland with it and gifted to our kids. He said it is from this lake that the drinking water is being distributed in Palani.

Along the 5 km perimeter of the Lake, we again became the children of years back. With my daughter both of us, rounded the lake with two bicycles rented for 20 rupees. It was of no break and a soundless bell tethered to  two rims.  To catch my daughter, we had to pant a lot. Both kids were happy with horse riding and at last when we entered into the Bryant Park it was time to close. We missed that lovely scenes and children’s’ play. From far away we saw the Suicide point meshed up to prevent further suicides. Like before there was no vulture seen roaming around that fathomless valley.

It was on unwinding the mountains that we could perceive the real pageantry that Mother Nature has prepared for us. It was drizzling when we return. We  never felt we leave the hill station, but still walking through the forests inhaling the smell of eucalyptus and putting our palms inside the pockets. The entry gate to Kodaikanal, the Silver Cascade asked us to halt there.

By that time Onam celebrations have came to an end in Kerala. All the upcoming vehicles were of Kerala registration. At every hair pin bend, we could see Malayali youngsters sitting around a liquor bottle and sipping the foaming glasses. The second stage of the Onam celebration was at the kick start there…

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