In what way, the north-east state Arunachal Pradesh is connected with the Kerala state in the southern tip in Indian peninsula? It is the bespoke Indian way of sin and redemption. The legendary hero Parsuram is said to have washed away his sins of matricide in the Lohit river of Arunachal and came back to the south only to retrieve a land, Kerala, to donate to the Brahmins as a custom of atonement.

However, B.Asok Kumar progresses through a reverse path, from Kerala to Arunachal, not to have a pilgrim’s holy dip, but to subdue to the professional system and to give us a vignette of the distant neighbour.

When I received the transfer order to Itanagar (the capital of Arunachal Pradesh), I just recalled the Gowhati-Trivendrum Express, which is said to be running one week late, often. Anyways, I had to set out as usual as in any sentimental movie, along with the slow motions of the train. Fortunately, I got a good family to Naharlagan, a place very near to Itanagar to share my cabin. I remember the name of the pater familias as, Mr.Ram, who was very co-operative and understanding.. I never felt alone but it seemed to me that Chennai is very near to my hometown Trichur.

Across the diversities

We were passing through the spread out terrains of India, smelling its pluralities, feeling the pulse of each pesky land. While Crossing Andhra Pradesh, some guys came near. Though in appearance they do not feel so, they were actually begging for money. Mr.Ram told me that they are hijdas( neither male nor female). He briefed me the two ways to manage the Hijdas – either give them ten rupees or pretend to read something curiously. I gave them a ten rupee note. Kamala Das’ “Dance of the Eunuchs” came animated before my eyes.

All through the journey Mr.Ram was talking about Itanagar. What all things he told out of his own experiences of 40 years were, absolutely different from what I heard from Kerala. That was truly relieving. When reached Bhubaneshwar, we had our coffee. Bargaining with the Oriyan vendors was really something interesting.

Through the historical Kolkotha , we passed along the raving beauty of Shiliguri’s narrow entrance. If you go through the map of India, you will see that north eastern states look as if it is a cape or isthmus, but devoid of water. Our train stopped at the mofussils of New Bongaigaon, a station in Assam. Vendors of Chinese made electronic goods, gate crashed in. Everybody was seen engaged in bargaining. At about 3 p.m. we reached Gowhati station. It is a sojourn. From here you can go to any part of the north eastern states.

Itanager, my ultimate target, is 400km away from Gowhati. Ordinary bus services, Luxury bus services and helicopter services were there from Gowhatti to Itanagar. Buses were available either in the morning or in the evening. After 4 hours waiting, I got a bus at 7 p.m. but I was sad to miss the scenic beauty since it was getting dark. I sat staring at the darkness recalling the hearsays from Kerala, about the lootings and sackings, which might happen at any time from the native aborigines.

Some loud talks woke me up. I peeped out. It was Bander Deva, one of the entry points to Arunachal Pradesh. Here we need an inner line pass, as we are not from the Arunachal tribe. This pass is a license to enter Arunachal Pradesh. This is to be obtained from Resident Commissioner’s office of the Government of Arunachal Pradesh, at Gowhatti, Tezpur, Dibrugarh, North Lakhipur etc in Assam. It is also available at the office of Arunachal Pradesh Government at New Delhi and Schilong. For Government servants on transfer, they have to show the transfer order at Bander deva and after joining they have to get the pass from the concerned authorities in AP. If decided to bring family, you have to bring family pass also.

It was dawn. After the checking, our bus started climbing, as Itanagar is 530 meter above the sea level. The salubrious ambiance rejuvenated my spirits. I just hated the involuntary blinking of my eyelids. Felt, as if I was in heaven.

With Neharlagun in mind, I just imagined Itanagar with an area of 83,743 sq.km. It stretches from the snow capped Himalayas in the north to the plain of Brahmaputra terrain. Sixty five percentage of its land area is dense forest, which makes this state something different. Mutually dependant ecosystem once this earth enjoyed is found susceptible only here now, I thought. The other thirty five percentage of this state is layered mountains with rivers flowing through its cleavages. Subsequently, the mountains divide the state into five river valleys, – the Kameng, the Subansiri, the Lohit, and the Tirap. The Siang river finally merges into Brahmaputra. Lohit river carries the legendry hoards with it. It is said that Sage Parsuram ,has washed away his sins of matricide, here. This particular area of Lohit is also known by the name Parasuram Kund , as such. In the month of January a lot of devotees come here to have a holy dip.

Arunachal Pradesh is hemmed on the west by Bhuttan and by China in north. Total population of this wide state is only 11 lakhs!

Crossing the picturesque Bander deva, we reached a plateau with a lot of buildings – Naharlagun. It is the head quarters of State assembly and the Rajiv Gandhi University.

“Next stop is Bank Thinali. We have to get down there.” Mr.Ram said.

“Then where is Itanagar?” I was a child then.

“This area as a whole is known by that name..Itanagar” Mr.Ram smiled.

I hardly believed his words. That was not even a small city. No good buildings in the vicinity. I made a call to my colleague. He asked me to take an auto and come directly to AIR, Itanagar, nearly 1 km up-hill. Waving To Mr.Ram, I caught an auto( for that I had to pay Rs.30). Anyways, my colleague took me to my quarters, where I realized the fact that, if I want to survive , I need to know cooking, as there was hardly any hotel nearby.

Awaiting Surprises

I am talking about the Itangar of 2005. For your information I mention the rates of some items in the markets there at that time. For one kilo of cauliflower, you have to give Rs.80/-. No vegetable is available for less than twenty rupees per kilo. Quite often, I would have a glance at the heaped tomatoes and prepare a curry assuming tomato is added in it. Leafy vegetables and variety of fishes are plenty there. Besides, you will get a typical kind of worms in the market at the rate of Rs.100 per kilo. Like dried fish, dried worms, dried rats, dried frogs and like anything which will not bite back is available in the market. Vendors are mostly outsiders. Bu we get things in comparatively cheaper rate, if bought from the locals.

Here rain is unpredictable. Two hot days will definitely bring a heavy rain. So keeping an umbrella always with is a good practice.

While it is hot and humid at the lower altitudes and in the valleys, it will be chilly in the higher stations. Average temperature ranges from 15 to 21 degree Celsius in winter and 22 to 30 degree Celsius during monsoon. In June and July there will be maximum rain. Landslides are usual happenings then.

The information I collected prior to my Itanagar journey was not quite good. The people here are known to be some sort of a rustic nature to the outside world. In fact they are humble, polite and good looking. Probably the past bitter experiences of the exploitations of the innocence would be the cause behind their rude behavior to the outsiders. It may be the reason behind this fake impression. The rule to be followed here is, do not interfere with their personal interests and do your work sincerely. They are very much considerate. I myself got assimilated without any constraint and hence no problem from the tribes. The way they speak, the way they modulate their voice … I bet, you will definitely fall in love with them. So beware, don’t go there as a bachelor!

People from Bihar, Kerala, West Bengal et al have settled here. Some were even tied nuptial knots with them! But don’t go there with a real estate business in your mind. Here, no one can purchase a land or a building in his own name, if he is not a tribal of AP! If you want to invest money, you can do it, but in the name of a native tribal. Subsequently, binami business is aplomb here.

The people

There are at least 26 major and many more minor tribes each having their own tradition, custom and languages. Language of one tribe is not understood by another tribe. Official language is English. Tribal communities can be divided into 3 cultural groups on the basis of socio-religious background.

1. Those who follow Mahayana Buddhism 2. Those who worship Donyi-Polo(Sun-Moon). 3. Those who have a structured villager society.

All about a mithun

Both nuclear family and joint family are common. Each tribe has some exogenous clans. In respect of marriage, general rule is the tribe endogamy and clan exogamy. Both monogamous and polygamous marriages are frequent. Still, most of them provide separate room for each wife, generously. There is no dowry in Arunachal Pradesh. The bridegroom has to give Mithun (a bull like animal) to the bride’s family. The number of mithuns given to the bride’s family determines status. System seems to be good. But there is a trap in it. If a woman wants to withdraw from marriage, she has to give back the equal number of mithuns, her family received, before returning to her house. If husband dies, widow has to serve as the wife of husband’s brother. Earlier, they would not oppose their husband’s polygamy and at times even encouraged their husband to marry more so as to increase the work force in the farm fields.

Unlike a Keralite

One will be amazed by their expertise in Art and Craft. You can not but believe the way they weave sweater while walking, at times even with a baby tied totheir back. As a Keralite, I always get amazed, often adored their love and dedication to their works. They never sit idle or wait for a miracle to happen on their way.. They walk in a group talking but their hands move in grace to create exquisite patterns of handicrafts with vivid colors. Beautiful carpets, Shawl, dhoti etc are also woven. I really liked the unparalleled beauty of these woven materials and the intricate necklaces of colorful beads despite their high price. These people are really hard working and devoted to their work. They truly enjoy every whit of work they do.

‘Life is a tale….

In my two years tenure there, I had to face four instances of earthquakes. This is a quake-prone area, and hence they build their houses on raised platforms using bamboo and wood. People are used to such calamities that always swinging ahead and that may be the reason why they are this much simple and humble.

They make pickles out of bamboo. The main ingredient of their masala is bamboo. They avoid chilly. A special kind of kichadi they make with rice and dal is really yummy! (Still we make it in our home in Kerala). Apong is their traditional intoxicating liquor. Here morning and evening starts and end with apong. They serve this in the stump of bamboo and enjoy their lives – just like they enjoy their works, in every nuance of time.

Like any religious community in India, festivals are the essential part of their socio cultural life. Most of them are harvest related. When they dance, they will invite you to join; they will pull your hand and you will drift along the rhythm they impart.

Jandi Munda is a game related with Diwali festival. On that day, they do gambling with the permission from government! An array of small huts is built for the staging of the gambling sequels, which extends to 24 hours, uninterrupted. Apong adds pomp and splendor to the merriment. Lakhs of money is exchanged within minutes. Dexterity of the hand of the player is pivotal.

Enroute receptions

Arunachal Pradesh has a rich, rare and exclusive collection of orchids. Asia’s largest orchidarium is here at Tipi in West Kameng district. There are exclusive monuments, archaeological sites and places of worship. The Buddhist pilgrimage site, the legendry 17th century Tawang monastery is, worthy watching. 28 feet high Golden Buddha adorns the monastery. Malinithan is the place where Lord Krishna and Rukmini rested during their journey to Dwaraka. Bhismaknagar is a hill fort made of bricks in 12^th century AD. This place is mentioned in Mahabharatha. Gangalake at the foothills of the Himalayas is a unique beauty. If you are an ardent believer of Lord Shiva,Menga cave is a place to be visited. Along, Dong, Itafort, Likabali, Passighat, Walong and Ziro are some of the places worthy to make out.

A different picture of this place is something to be kept in mind. While passing through the road, if your vehicle hits with a local man’s vehicle, you will have to pay an amount almost equal to the actual prize of a new one of the same genre. Negotiation is possible. But in any case half the rate of the vehicle has to be paid. No excuse please. What I heard from Kerala cannot be ruled out completely as on-dits, Right? So, take care not to hit a hen which would have at least 3 generations each with an average of 300 eggs annually.

Anyways, you are not going there in your own vehicles. Get the best luxury coaches or modish helicopters to have the feel of this orchid garden, the Land of Dawnlit Mountains. And if needs more, end up your pursuit with a holy dip!

(The writer is an Assistant Engineer with All India Radio)

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